Friday, May 27, 2011
A grand new strategy! Plant in autumn, eat in spring!
Sadly, no. I chose some plants that were readying to bolt this week. The roots were generally small and those that weren't had pale, somewhat spongy interiors.
No spring carrots for me, after all. But a lesson learned, and now some room for flowers. I'll be choosing flowers that a) I like, b) are bee-friendly, and c) may help repel or distract pests.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
When I first moved into the Green Tenancy with its tangle of a backyard, I had a notion of keeping bees. It was one shared by an upstairs neighbour who daydreamed of apiary. Sadly, it was a dream we could not fulfill because doing so would put us in contravention of the Ontario Bees Act.
But not being allowed to keep honeybees doesn't mean you can't enjoy bees or the pleasures of amateur mellitology.
Bees are an absolute necessity for any gardener. They pollinate our fruit and veg, making it possible for us to grow most of our food crops (though grains and corn generally work without 'em). Over the last few years, I've been enjoying watching the various bumble bees, hornets and swat bees (I think that's what they are) buzzing around my various flowers.
Last week, I sat down with a copy of Keeping the Bees, an excellently written and very lively book by York University mellitologist Laurence Packer. If you like bees or gardening, this book is a must-read. Not to mention a fun read.
It contains more than just an overview of bees, bee genetics, bee habitats and a solid argument for using them as environmental indicators. It also shares the author's incredible passion for his subject and provides some great ideas for urban gardeners. Here are a few tips I picked up from the last chapter:
- Plant a variety of flowering plants, particularly native species. Some ornamental flowers aren't very bee-friendly, many native plants are. A variety of plants is good for a garden anyways, and it seems my mixture of strawberries, peas, beans, tomatoes, flowers, triffid-like squash and more is as good for the bees as it is for my plate.
- Plant some raspberry or blackberry canes and don't chop them down at the end of the season. Some bees live inside old canes, which is really cool. Besides, these brambly vines produce excellent fruit for eating and for attracting birds (which, like wasps, are great natural predators of common garden pests). I planted blackberry canes in the back alley this year. If they grow anything like the ones I had in London, then they'll likely deter the raccoons a bit, too.
- Provide nesting sites. In addition to blackberry canes, you can stake tomatoes with bamboo. Leave the stakes out year-round to provide bee habitat. Carpenter bees also like holes in wood. I tossed an old tree trunk in one corner of the garden that I let go wild. That corner has sprung up with bee-friendly wildflowers such as goldenrod, as well as mint and several other plants, and I've no doubt that both the soil and the old trunk are now home to all sorts of nifty insects. Will have to go back there with my son and a magnifying glass to check it out sometime.
- Buy organic food when possible. Many pesticides are bad for bees, either killing them or sterilizing them. Kind of a silly practice when you consider that bees are important pollinators for most non-cereal crops. As Packer points out, "You can help the bees in this way even if you live in a high-rise without a balcony."
- Encourage politicians to support bee-friendly policies such as planting wildflowers on verges, banning cosmetic pesticides or letting areas of parks grow wild. To my city's credit, they've banned cosmetic pesticides and are letting several sizable areas in parks grow wild (which is far more attractive than you might imagine).
Monday, May 23, 2011
This spring is the beginning of my fourth summer in the Green Tenancy, and a couple weeks ago I determined that it is finally time to empty the first of my composters. After removing the sturdy black plastic outer structure and a bit of non-composted straw from the top, I quickly realized the compost would need screening.
You see, different materials take different amounts of time to compost. Almost everything had turned to a nice, rich soil (and it is true that there's no odour save a pleasant earthy smell). But a few bits hadn't broken down sufficiently to go in the garden. Also, because of occasional thin layers of dirt added (it adds micro-organisms and speeds composting), there were a few bits of gravel.
I needed a screen.
Thankfully, I'd put the composter on a sturdy metal mesh. This I placed on top of the wheelbarrow, then shovelled some compost onto it. With my son holding the mesh in place, the system worked. But, being eight, he soon lost interest and I found the mesh wouldn't stay in place on its own.
Making my own screen
Because the mesh nicely fit the length and width of the wheelbarrow, I took it down to my basement workshop. On a shelf I keep some lengths of wood for whatever projects come along. In this case, I selected some old railings from a retired bed.
Normally I am an advocate of careful measuring, but this is no fine woodworking. Here's what I did.
- Set the mesh on the floor
- Cut two pieces for the longer sides. These I made so they'd stick out 7 or 8 inches on either end. This was partly to make sure they'd be long enough to straddle any wheelbarrow, but also to serve as handles for shaking the compost through.
- Position those two pieces on the mesh, with 2-3 inches left over on either side (to later fold up and staple into place.
- Cut two pieces for the ends, just long enough to fit inside the sides. Again, leave some extra mesh to fold up and staple in place.
- Pre-drill and nail sides into place. I used two nails on the end of each sidepiece and selected 1 1/2" (4d) spiral finishing nails
- Place the mesh on top, then push it down into place so that there's an inch or more of mesh going up the inside of the box on every side.
- Tack the mesh into place. Heavy-duty staples or U-nails make the most sense, but finding none handy, I just tapped finishing nails in part way and bent them over.
What didn't compost?
Not much. Almost everything broke down nicely. There were some exceptions, though.
- Rocks. Obviously.
- Black olives. They were partway there and had turned red and cork-like on the inside. I put them back for another year or two.
- Wood. Even the sturdy stems I'd lined the bottom of the composter with had broken down, but a couple larger chunks of wood had to go back.
- Egg shells. Don't compost these. Instead, bake or boil them to kill micro-organisms, then grind them with your mortar & pestle and apply the coarse powder to the garden. It adds calcium (handy if your soil is too acidic) and may also deter some annoying pests (slugs, I'm lookin' at you!). We did find one whole, uncracked egg, which was unfortunate.
- Rabbit poo. Some was still in pellet form, but with two years of composting, I'm betting it'll be okay for the garden, so I let it go through. The critters in the garden seem to have broken it down already.
Oh, and I also keep my coffee grounds separate. I've heard they repel slugs, so am scattering them directly on the garden. We'll see if it turns the lavender brown.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Like a lot of renters, I have a basement space. And that means a choice between dampness and poor air quality or running a dehumidifier and eating the electricity costs.
This week, I did two smart things: I cleaned the dehumidifier and bought a timer.
Before going further, in the interests of clarity I should state that I rent the ground floor and basement of a Victorian semi. The basement in question is home to my son's bedroom, my office, plus storage and my little workshop.
Cleaning the dehumidifier
This was easier than I'd expected. One piece of advice: go outside or to a room with a floor drain. Even if you empty the dehumidifier, if it's been running there's likely ice which will melt and make a wet mess. Luckily, my workshop/furnace room has a concrete floor and floor drain.
The main thing to clean out on any dehumidifier is the air filter. On most they are above the water bucket and simply slide out. Oh, by "simply" I mean "with great difficulty." I've never owned a dehumidifier in which the filter slid out easily. This time I took the front housing off to make it easier (just had to remove two screws and unclip it from the main body housing).
A quick rinse under warm water removed about a 3mm-thick buildup of dust that had clogged the air filter. Doubtless this alone will improve the machine's efficiency.
For good measure, I removed the back housing and wiped down the fan blades, which had a good caking of dust on them.
Has my energy efficiency improved? I don't know for sure, but can't see how it can fail to have improved. An added bonus is that the machine's annoying buzzing sound has gone away, making it much quieter. Probably just a factor of screwing everything back in securely.
Buying a timer
Where I live, electricity is priced by when it's used. Between 9 p.m. and 6 a.m. it's about half the price it is at other times. This is why I do laundry and run the dishwasher at night. But remembering to turn the dehumidifier on and off was a pain, resulting in high electricity bills or a musty basement.
This week I finally dropped twenty bucks on a simple timer. There are cheaper models that work fine, but this one is a three-pronged timer suited for appliance use. Now the dehumidifier goes on at 9 p.m. and off at 6 a.m. and I no longer have to think about it at all.